layering clothing system
This category is key for comfort and thermoregulation. But it is also where one can shave carry weight. Consider each piece of clothing. Plan for temperature extremes. The layering system of sports clothing is key in managing warmth and staying dry.
We were on a high mesa in the desert, and it had been raining, and close to freezing all day. We were both getting chilled, but Simon became hypothermic. We quickly set up camp under the protection of some trees. Simon was incapable of changing his clothing as his hands were too cold. Julie assisted him in removing his wet clothing and donning his dry, nighttime clothes. Soon, he was dry and tucked into his sleeping bag. In a short while, he warmed up and was his cheerful self again.
Clothing Layering System
Using a layering system maximises the usefulness of the clothing pieces. Some fabrics protect against the harmful sun rays or have an added insect repellent treatment. These repellent chemical finishes work well initially but will eventually wash away. The tight weave of shirt fabric may provide a bit more protection against insect bites than knit sweaters.
The fit of the clothing should be form-fitting but loose/stretchy enough to allow full range of motion. Seams need to be flat stitched to minimise chafing. Pay close attention to areas where there may be friction or rubbing, such as inner thighs, shoulders, and waist bands. These should be as smooth as possible. The straps of the pack may overlap seams and cause some pressure sores.
A base layer is closest to our skin, meaning it collects the most sweat. The purpose of this layer is to keep us dry by pulling moisture away from our skin and spreading it throughout the fabric. At the same time, this fabric should fit snugly and retain some insulating properties. Never wear cotton as a base layer, which does wick moisture away, but then retains that moisture as the fabric loses its resiliency, loses its warmth, and causes too much evaporative cooling.
Evaporation from sweating, is the primary cooling mechanism our body utilises. In an alpine environment this can be dangerous because it can cool us off too much and/or too quickly. While we all have the basic sense to protect ourselves from rain, the big mistake inexperienced hikers make is ignoring how wet and dangerous sweat can be. The poor choice of a base layer can quickly create a wet, clammy layer next to the skin that removes the ability to stay warm and invites too much evaporative cooling.
There are two main categories of base layers: synthetic and wool. Examples of synthetic layers are polypropylene, polyester, or CapileneR (Patagonia) undergarments, the benefits of which are that they are not itchy, tend to be less expensive than wool, are more durable, and dry faster. The downside to synthetic base layers is that they tend to accumulate body odors, and it never seems to wash away.
Many feel that wool insulates better than synthetic base layers when it is cold and stays more comfortable over a larger temperature gradient when it is hot. Although wool takes longer to dry than synthetics, it continues to insulate well even when wet. Today, wool base layers are made primarily out of merino wool, which is thin and lightweight, less itchy than traditional wool, and does not retain odors as much. However, wool tends to tear and abrade more easily.
Base layers come in different weights. Depending on the conditions expected during a trek, a hiker can choose a more, or less, insulating base layer. It may come as a surprise to learn that most mountaineers prefer thin base layers. The reason is that when performing strenuous activities, even in cold environments, overheating can be as big a problem as keeping warm. The nighttime base layers are typically thicker and warmer to assist in keeping warm while resting.
Lastly, a zip-neck, and/or hoody base layer gives another tool to conveniently regulate body temperature. The additional cooling of an open neck is substantial when working hard, and easy to zip up when at rest. When feeling chilled, donning the hoody can substantially warm the hiker.
Many thru-hikers wear shorts and tank tops as base garments. These are lightweight and provide generous airflow. But the exposed skin may burn in the sun, bugs can bite more easily, and plant scrapes can cause minor cuts and scrapes. These minor injuries can lead to infection and tax the immune (healing) system. It is a minor point, but any extra demands on our energy level, removes it from our primary purpose, walking.
Using a layering system maximises the usefulness of the clothing pieces. Some fabrics protect against the harmful sun rays or have an added insect repellent treatment. These repellent chemical finishes work well initially but will eventually wash away. The tight weave of shirt fabric may provide a bit more protection against insect bites than knit sweaters.
The fit of the clothing should be form-fitting but loose/stretchy enough to allow full range of motion. Seams need to be flat stitched to minimise chafing. Pay close attention to areas where there may be friction or rubbing, such as inner thighs, shoulders, and waist bands. These should be as smooth as possible. The straps of the pack may overlap seams and cause some pressure sores.
A base layer is closest to our skin, meaning it collects the most sweat. The purpose of this layer is to keep us dry by pulling moisture away from our skin and spreading it throughout the fabric. At the same time, this fabric should fit snugly and retain some insulating properties. Never wear cotton as a base layer, which does wick moisture away, but then retains that moisture as the fabric loses its resiliency, loses its warmth, and causes too much evaporative cooling.
Evaporation from sweating, is the primary cooling mechanism our body utilises. In an alpine environment this can be dangerous because it can cool us off too much and/or too quickly. While we all have the basic sense to protect ourselves from rain, the big mistake inexperienced hikers make is ignoring how wet and dangerous sweat can be. The poor choice of a base layer can quickly create a wet, clammy layer next to the skin that removes the ability to stay warm and invites too much evaporative cooling.
There are two main categories of base layers: synthetic and wool. Examples of synthetic layers are polypropylene, polyester, or CapileneR (Patagonia) undergarments, the benefits of which are that they are not itchy, tend to be less expensive than wool, are more durable, and dry faster. The downside to synthetic base layers is that they tend to accumulate body odors, and it never seems to wash away.
Many feel that wool insulates better than synthetic base layers when it is cold and stays more comfortable over a larger temperature gradient when it is hot. Although wool takes longer to dry than synthetics, it continues to insulate well even when wet. Today, wool base layers are made primarily out of merino wool, which is thin and lightweight, less itchy than traditional wool, and does not retain odors as much. However, wool tends to tear and abrade more easily.
Base layers come in different weights. Depending on the conditions expected during a trek, a hiker can choose a more, or less, insulating base layer. It may come as a surprise to learn that most mountaineers prefer thin base layers. The reason is that when performing strenuous activities, even in cold environments, overheating can be as big a problem as keeping warm. The nighttime base layers are typically thicker and warmer to assist in keeping warm while resting.
Lastly, a zip-neck, and/or hoody base layer gives another tool to conveniently regulate body temperature. The additional cooling of an open neck is substantial when working hard, and easy to zip up when at rest. When feeling chilled, donning the hoody can substantially warm the hiker.
Many thru-hikers wear shorts and tank tops as base garments. These are lightweight and provide generous airflow. But the exposed skin may burn in the sun, bugs can bite more easily, and plant scrapes can cause minor cuts and scrapes. These minor injuries can lead to infection and tax the immune (healing) system. It is a minor point, but any extra demands on our energy level, removes it from our primary purpose, walking.
We prefer long pants (Simon), or skirt (Julie), and long sleeve sweaters or shirts. The full covering protects us against the harmful rays of the sun, insects, and scrapes and scratches. As well, they are cooler do to the evaporation cooling effect. Julie prefers hiking in compression leggings and a ¾ length skirt. The leggings help with blood circulation and decreases swelling. The skirt helps shield her legs from the sun, bugs, and wind. The added benefit of a skirt comes when answering a ‘nature call’. The privacy factor of the skirt allows for voiding without being caught ‘with her pants down’!
The selection of nighttime clothing is temperature dependent. In warm climates a short sleeve tank top and light tights or shorts will suffice. But if the nighttime temperatures drop, warmer layers will be appreciated. The question also arises whether one sleeps hot or cold. Simon sleeps hot and he may be comfortable with short-sleeved top and light tights for the night. Julie on the other hand, sleeps cold and prefers warmer clothing for bedtime. We never wear our nighttime outfit for walking. If our daytime clothing is still wet in the morning, it does not matter. We put on the wet clothing and start our day. We know, we will be wet from effort, and/or the weather anyway. We will warm up with walking. |
A dry outfit at the end of the day ensures that we are warm and comfortable for rest-time.
We typically carry two to three pairs of underwear and socks. Underwear should be made of quick dry fabric. The apertures for the legs need to be fitted to reduce ridding up, causing friction. Men’s underwear should fit snuggly to hold and support the penis and scrotum minimising chafing.
Sports bras should be supportive but not binding. As well, select models with minimal elastic around the torso, as elastic dries very slowly and may cause chilling. Consider the location of the clasps, if any, are they close to where the pack straps may touch the shoulders or torso?
There are many styles of socks available. Merino wool, or similar fabric, is great as it dries quickly and retains its warmth when wet. There are liner socks, single layer socks, toed socks, and double layer socks. As well, socks come in different thicknesses: light-weight, for warm climates, mid-weight to heavy-weight, for cooler climates and more cushioning. The choice of style, and thickness, is very personal.
We typically carry two to three pairs of underwear and socks. Underwear should be made of quick dry fabric. The apertures for the legs need to be fitted to reduce ridding up, causing friction. Men’s underwear should fit snuggly to hold and support the penis and scrotum minimising chafing.
Sports bras should be supportive but not binding. As well, select models with minimal elastic around the torso, as elastic dries very slowly and may cause chilling. Consider the location of the clasps, if any, are they close to where the pack straps may touch the shoulders or torso?
There are many styles of socks available. Merino wool, or similar fabric, is great as it dries quickly and retains its warmth when wet. There are liner socks, single layer socks, toed socks, and double layer socks. As well, socks come in different thicknesses: light-weight, for warm climates, mid-weight to heavy-weight, for cooler climates and more cushioning. The choice of style, and thickness, is very personal.
The purpose of the mid-layer is to capture warmth through trapped air. Typically, a mid-layer is a fleece or a thick wool layer. A mid-layer usually has some loft to help trap the warm air but is also breathable, so it is not suffocating and sweat-causing underneath a shell or outer layer.
As our metabolism churns, our body gives off heat through radiation. If too much heat escapes to a cold environment, it is harder to keep our core temperatures up. Although there is a fair amount of heat loss from our torso, nearly sixty percent of the heat escapes from our head. The mid-layer in the clothing system includes a heat-trapping layer such as a fleece sweater, or vest, and a warm hat.
Sometimes, a mid-layer can also be an insulating layer such as a thin synthetic or down puffy. The best insulated layers to use as a mid-layer are pieces that have pit-vents or breathable panels on the sides to allow some ventilation and reduce overheating. As with base layers, a hoody, zip-neck, or a full zip mid-layer makes it easy to regulate temperature.
As our metabolism churns, our body gives off heat through radiation. If too much heat escapes to a cold environment, it is harder to keep our core temperatures up. Although there is a fair amount of heat loss from our torso, nearly sixty percent of the heat escapes from our head. The mid-layer in the clothing system includes a heat-trapping layer such as a fleece sweater, or vest, and a warm hat.
Sometimes, a mid-layer can also be an insulating layer such as a thin synthetic or down puffy. The best insulated layers to use as a mid-layer are pieces that have pit-vents or breathable panels on the sides to allow some ventilation and reduce overheating. As with base layers, a hoody, zip-neck, or a full zip mid-layer makes it easy to regulate temperature.
We lose a lot of heat from our heads. Having a warm hat or muff can help regulate our temperature. During the day wearing a sun hat will reduce direct heat on the top of our heads, and reduce sun burn to our heads and neck. If it is cold, we can add the warm hat, or muff, under the sun hat or in its stead. At bedtime, a warm hat may be appreciated, even in the summer.
Gloves or mitts are a lightweight piece of clothing that can be useful. On those colder mornings or in the evening, having gloves may keep our hands warm and reduce the chilling effect. They can also be used to protect against the sun and the insects. Conduction is the process by which heat is directly transmitted through a substance when there is a difference of temperature between adjoining regions, without movement of the material. This means that when our bodies are in direct contact with cold surfaces such as the ground or a cold walking pole, the body will give off its heat to that surface. |
Warm socks and proper footwear are critical if the ground temperatures are cool. A good pair of gloves might be needed to insulate hands from wind or cold hiking poles. Conduction also comes into play in a cold rain, sleet, or snowstorm. Each cold raindrop that lands on our skin will suck away body heat via conduction, nowhere more seriously than through our head if it is uncovered.
An insulation layer, whether synthetic or down, provides extra loft and warmth, essentially doing what a thick mid-layer does, but with a much higher warmth-to-weight ratio. The insulated layer jacket should fit comfortably over a light fleece and underneath an outer technical shell. When the weather is dry but cold, the insulated layer may be worn as an outer layer, helping keep warmth in when we stop for a rest, or at the campsite.
Light, highly compressible, and offering the best warmth-to-weight ratio, a lightweight down jacket is a great choice for an insulating layer. However, if the climate presents sustained wet conditions, down's inability to insulate when wet makes it a poor choice. In those circumstances, a lightweight synthetic jacket is best. A hoody style jacket is also a smart option for the insulating layer, offering a substantial increase in warmth for almost no cost in weight or bulk.
In summer conditions, we often choose a mid-weight warm-layer or bring a light puffy jacket. But as temperatures drop, we combine both mid-layer and an insulation layer for extra warmth. Especially after sundown, combining in this way provides substantial warmth.
In colder conditions, such as winter snow camping, we choose a thicker down or synthetic jacket for our insulation layer despite the added bulk.
Light, highly compressible, and offering the best warmth-to-weight ratio, a lightweight down jacket is a great choice for an insulating layer. However, if the climate presents sustained wet conditions, down's inability to insulate when wet makes it a poor choice. In those circumstances, a lightweight synthetic jacket is best. A hoody style jacket is also a smart option for the insulating layer, offering a substantial increase in warmth for almost no cost in weight or bulk.
In summer conditions, we often choose a mid-weight warm-layer or bring a light puffy jacket. But as temperatures drop, we combine both mid-layer and an insulation layer for extra warmth. Especially after sundown, combining in this way provides substantial warmth.
In colder conditions, such as winter snow camping, we choose a thicker down or synthetic jacket for our insulation layer despite the added bulk.
The light wind/rain layer is easy to pack, not burdensome to carry, even long distances, and provides essential protection. Protection from wind-chill makes a significant difference in how warm we feel. Most wind layers also offer moderate protection in the event of a brief summer rain, such as an afternoon thunderstorm, giving enough water resistance to comfortably retreat and/or find cover.
Convection is the cooling from the movement of air and fluids. Convection can work on a macro-level when a blast of wind chills us to the bone, or on a micro-level next to our skin when we sweat. Convection works like this: cold air or water moves near our body, heats up, and moves away, allowing more cold air, or water, to reach our bodies again, cooling us off. When trying to stay warm, the third layer comes in, the wind breaker.
Convection is the cooling from the movement of air and fluids. Convection can work on a macro-level when a blast of wind chills us to the bone, or on a micro-level next to our skin when we sweat. Convection works like this: cold air or water moves near our body, heats up, and moves away, allowing more cold air, or water, to reach our bodies again, cooling us off. When trying to stay warm, the third layer comes in, the wind breaker.
Outer Shells (Soft or Hard Shells) built of materials that offer both breathability and water-resistance, are a technical outer shell which help us cycle between sweating and hunkering down from the storm. Two styles of outer shells are offered: hard and soft. A soft shell will be more flexible and breathable, may be water-resistant, but not waterproof. Some come with a laminated windproof membrane. A hard shell will be both waterproof and windproof but not as breathable. If sustained rain conditions occur, there is no replacement for a waterproof hard shell. The best styles offer taped seams, waterproof zipper systems, multiple layers, and materials that offer some breathability (pit zips) even though they are waterproof.
We left the Mount Baker trail head on a warm morning. Our friend, Mike, chose to wear shorts and a sports top. But as we neared the glacier, the weather turned, and it started sleeting. Mike quickly became chilled. We stopped and he donned some tights and fleece sweater and topped this with his rain pants and jacket. Having the right layers resolved this event quickly and efficiently.
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A good lightweight rain jacket, pants, skirt, or poncho reduces the chance of getting completely soaked by heavy rains. Rain jackets double duty as wind jackets. Chose a light weight, hooded, zip-up style that will allow some control over ventilation and weather protection. Pit-zips can be particularly useful on warmer hikes. They allow the wearer to breathe while staying dry. Look for a well-designed coat with waterproof seams and zippers.
We have used an Altus rain poncho, seen in this image. It has sleeves, like a jacket, and has a ‘pouch’ at the back that can hold a backpack. The length of the poncho keeps our torso and thighs dry. Other styles of ponchos can work reasonably well but they typically snap together on the sides of the body. This forms loose sleeves, where the arms are exposed to rain. This flaw leads to soaking of the sleeves, and eventually the body. |
The sun can cause long lasting damage to our eyes, as well as our skin. Even on a cloudy day, the effect of the sun can be quite damaging. Sunglasses need to be of good quality and protect the eyes from UV rays, wrap the face to shield from side rays, and be free of scratches. Scratches on the lenses let the sunlight through the glasses. This in turn can cause focal burns to the eyes.
Gaiters protect the opening of shoes and boots. Grit, small bits of vegetation such as spurs or leaves, can work their way into the footwear, imposing a stop. Gaiters can also slow the ingress of moisture from dew, rain, or snow into our footwear. Depending on the weather and footwear, gaiters can be short (ankle length), or long (knee length). They can be loose fitting or snug. They are typically sized for either shoes or boots. Prior to purchasing a pair, select which type of footwear to be worn.
In regions where flying insects are a concern, having a bug mesh hood, and/or vest is important. These lightweight articles of protective clothing can save our sanity. We have found that insect repellents do not work well. They can be effective for short periods of time, for some insects, but need to be reapplied often. Because we perspire a lot, the repellent does not stay on our skin long enough to be worthwhile.
Gaiters protect the opening of shoes and boots. Grit, small bits of vegetation such as spurs or leaves, can work their way into the footwear, imposing a stop. Gaiters can also slow the ingress of moisture from dew, rain, or snow into our footwear. Depending on the weather and footwear, gaiters can be short (ankle length), or long (knee length). They can be loose fitting or snug. They are typically sized for either shoes or boots. Prior to purchasing a pair, select which type of footwear to be worn.
In regions where flying insects are a concern, having a bug mesh hood, and/or vest is important. These lightweight articles of protective clothing can save our sanity. We have found that insect repellents do not work well. They can be effective for short periods of time, for some insects, but need to be reapplied often. Because we perspire a lot, the repellent does not stay on our skin long enough to be worthwhile.
LAYERING CLOTHING SYSTEM - PRACTICAL SKILLS
Clothing maintenance on and off the trail
Having some basic clothing maintenance protocols helps keep our clothes in good condition for a longer period. We try and minimise getting dirty or wet. Dirt can cause wear to some fabrics, shortening its life. Profuse sweating will soak our clothing and cause us to possibly get chilled. Using the layering system described above, we typically start our walking day cool. Starting out by wearing our warm layers would result in quickly becoming overheated and soaked. This would render our protective mid-layer, useless when we really need it.
At the end of the walking day, we will change our base layer, and if needed, add the mid-layer, and wind/rain layer to stay comfortable. Our daytime base layer is set out to dry while we setup camp and prepare our evening meal. Moist daytime base layers can be slipped into our sleeping bags at night. The warmth of our body typically dries the clothing overnight. Camp time is a good time to wash undies and socks, if needed. If they are still wet in the morning, they can be hung from our packs to dry as we walk.
In warmer climates, we typically remove our footwear during our breaks. This way, we dry our socks, minimising friction, and other moisture related problems.
At home we thoroughly wash all clothing and dry it before it is put away. There are some commercial soaps that can refresh the waterproofing of rain shells that prolong their lives. Worn out items need to be replaced prior to next season.
Having some basic clothing maintenance protocols helps keep our clothes in good condition for a longer period. We try and minimise getting dirty or wet. Dirt can cause wear to some fabrics, shortening its life. Profuse sweating will soak our clothing and cause us to possibly get chilled. Using the layering system described above, we typically start our walking day cool. Starting out by wearing our warm layers would result in quickly becoming overheated and soaked. This would render our protective mid-layer, useless when we really need it.
At the end of the walking day, we will change our base layer, and if needed, add the mid-layer, and wind/rain layer to stay comfortable. Our daytime base layer is set out to dry while we setup camp and prepare our evening meal. Moist daytime base layers can be slipped into our sleeping bags at night. The warmth of our body typically dries the clothing overnight. Camp time is a good time to wash undies and socks, if needed. If they are still wet in the morning, they can be hung from our packs to dry as we walk.
In warmer climates, we typically remove our footwear during our breaks. This way, we dry our socks, minimising friction, and other moisture related problems.
At home we thoroughly wash all clothing and dry it before it is put away. There are some commercial soaps that can refresh the waterproofing of rain shells that prolong their lives. Worn out items need to be replaced prior to next season.
footwear
There is an ongoing debate of which footwear is best for distance walking. We believe it is important to look at the condition of our feet and ankles, the weight of our packs, and the terrain. For that reason, we give footwear a wide berth from 650g to 900g, with camp footwear at 105g to 500g.
Both of us have pre-existing foot issues. Simon has weak mid-foot muscles that tire and allow his metatarsals (long bones of his feet) to ‘drop’. This causes pressure on nerves in his foot resulting in pain. This leads to a blister forming under the ball of his foot. He benefits from sturdier support at the mid-foot. Julie has torn some ligaments at her ankle resulting in instability. Having a high ankle support minimises this instability.
Coming from a mountaineering background, we prefer sturdier shoes/boots when carrying a heavy pack (+9kg/+20lbs). Terrain also can influence the shoe/boot decision. Imagine walking many days on very rough ground with a light shoe. With every step, feeling each stone underfoot. This will cause bruising eventually. As we age, the fat pad under our heels becomes thinner. Wearing footwear which provides more cushioning will prevent undue pain.
Light shoes or trail runners: (650 g) are light weight and do not tire the leg muscles as much as heavier boots. This footwear can save a fair amount of energy. They typically breathe well, keeping the feet cooler during the warm season. If they get wet, they will dry quickly. The downfalls include: the mesh top allows grit to enter the shoe, which can lead to more friction AKA blisters. They do not support the feet as well as boots. Their life expectancy is about eight hundred kilometers (500 mi). If the trek is longer than this, is the plan to carry an extra pair, send an extra pair further along the trail, or purchase a new shoe in a community? Can this same style of shoe be purchased in this community?
Zero or neutral shoes offer a wider fit, a flat, neutral, sole, and minimal support. They allow for a more natural walking style as the wearer feels the ground and automatically softens his/her steps. They take a lot of getting used to. If you chose this style of footwear, use them at home for a few months prior to your trip. We use these shoes for our workout (in gyms/at home we workout barefoot) to engage our intrinsic foot muscles. But we prefer more cushioning while on the trail.
Both of us have pre-existing foot issues. Simon has weak mid-foot muscles that tire and allow his metatarsals (long bones of his feet) to ‘drop’. This causes pressure on nerves in his foot resulting in pain. This leads to a blister forming under the ball of his foot. He benefits from sturdier support at the mid-foot. Julie has torn some ligaments at her ankle resulting in instability. Having a high ankle support minimises this instability.
Coming from a mountaineering background, we prefer sturdier shoes/boots when carrying a heavy pack (+9kg/+20lbs). Terrain also can influence the shoe/boot decision. Imagine walking many days on very rough ground with a light shoe. With every step, feeling each stone underfoot. This will cause bruising eventually. As we age, the fat pad under our heels becomes thinner. Wearing footwear which provides more cushioning will prevent undue pain.
Light shoes or trail runners: (650 g) are light weight and do not tire the leg muscles as much as heavier boots. This footwear can save a fair amount of energy. They typically breathe well, keeping the feet cooler during the warm season. If they get wet, they will dry quickly. The downfalls include: the mesh top allows grit to enter the shoe, which can lead to more friction AKA blisters. They do not support the feet as well as boots. Their life expectancy is about eight hundred kilometers (500 mi). If the trek is longer than this, is the plan to carry an extra pair, send an extra pair further along the trail, or purchase a new shoe in a community? Can this same style of shoe be purchased in this community?
Zero or neutral shoes offer a wider fit, a flat, neutral, sole, and minimal support. They allow for a more natural walking style as the wearer feels the ground and automatically softens his/her steps. They take a lot of getting used to. If you chose this style of footwear, use them at home for a few months prior to your trip. We use these shoes for our workout (in gyms/at home we workout barefoot) to engage our intrinsic foot muscles. But we prefer more cushioning while on the trail.
Mid-weight hikers (900 g) are sturdier footwear that can provide a thicker sole, protecting the underfoot from the rough terrain. The boot itself supports the feet and ankles firmly. They will last closer to three thousand kilometers (1,800 miles) or more. Hiking boots are warmer and will lead to sweating, which can cause more friction, AKA blisters. They are heavier and will take more effort and energy away from walking. Each hiker must do their own research. What style of footwear will best suit their needs and the condition of the trail?
We met Andrew sitting at the bottom of a rough patch of trail. The path was a very steep decent on loose gravel with a generous smattering of fist-sized rocks. He had unfortunately tripped and sprained his ankle. Although we struggled down the same path, our sturdy boots prevented us from turning our ankles.
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When selecting proper footwear, look at the quality of the construction. The stitching of the top of the shoe, the sole, and how the laces are held onto the shoe are all good indicators of the quality. Waterproofing may be a good option, but keep in mind that this will also slow the drying time of the footwear, when they do get wet, and they will get wet.
Remember that feet will swell with walking long hours, during hot days, eating more salty foods, and at elevation. Hiking footwear needs to be one or two sizes larger than city shoes. Look at how the shoelaces up. Having the ability to cinch the shoe near the ankle without tightening the toe box of the footwear can help prevent the foot from sliding forward when walking down steep declines.
We typically research the ‘top ten best’ hikers for the season. We go to shops and try as many of the different styles we can find. Often, we try different shoes on both feet to compare fits. We look for overall comfort, no tight spots, and no movement at the heal while walking. There is no such thing as ‘breaking in’ a new pair of shoes. Any of these minor concerns will lead to hot spots or blisters on the trail.
Having a second pair of shoes or sandals for stream crossings, and/or for the campsite is worth considering. Allowing our feet to air out at camp is a luxury that we feel makes the added weight worthwhile. We opt for sandals, they can be worn in public showers, crossing streams, and for short walks at camp or in town. While we wear these sandals, our boots have a chance to air out.
Remember that feet will swell with walking long hours, during hot days, eating more salty foods, and at elevation. Hiking footwear needs to be one or two sizes larger than city shoes. Look at how the shoelaces up. Having the ability to cinch the shoe near the ankle without tightening the toe box of the footwear can help prevent the foot from sliding forward when walking down steep declines.
We typically research the ‘top ten best’ hikers for the season. We go to shops and try as many of the different styles we can find. Often, we try different shoes on both feet to compare fits. We look for overall comfort, no tight spots, and no movement at the heal while walking. There is no such thing as ‘breaking in’ a new pair of shoes. Any of these minor concerns will lead to hot spots or blisters on the trail.
Having a second pair of shoes or sandals for stream crossings, and/or for the campsite is worth considering. Allowing our feet to air out at camp is a luxury that we feel makes the added weight worthwhile. We opt for sandals, they can be worn in public showers, crossing streams, and for short walks at camp or in town. While we wear these sandals, our boots have a chance to air out.