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October 6th, 2015
The trip was a little long and tiring, three flights totaling 11 hours of flight time and four hours of layovers. One bus ride of about 1.5 hrs from the Airport to Paris South train station (Montparnasse), and one train ride of 5+ hrs to Bayonne in the southwest of France (against the Atlantic Ocean). What to do in Paris during our wait? Well, we walk. A quick look at the gardens of Luxembourg, then a walk in the Montparnasse cemetery. Salad and baguette for lunch. The day before leaving, we changed our reservation from a one night stay in Bayonne to two nights - a shot of genius, given the incredible jet lag after that fist day... Had a great sleep in the hotel and raring to go. Now it's day two and we are visiting Bayonne - a beautiful town full of Basque history. The cathedral and museum were both terrific and the coffee even better. We're focusing on as much greens as possible although you can't help but have french bread, cheese and sausages. |
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Bayonne is at the confluence of the rivers Nive and Adour. The cathedral on the hilltop can be seen from almost anywhere in town. The streets are narrow and filled with shops and cafes. Our hotel is located in the center of the old town. It feels good to walk. We are looking forward to tomorrow.
The train to St Jean-Pied-de-Port is early tomorrow morning (07:14). I is a 90(ish) minute ride which will take us to the start of the Camino in St Jean. We are excited to get going... Simon and Julie |
October 7th, 2015
Taking the opportunity to blog since we have connection again... This is not yet day one but the set-up day! We left Bayonne early with a 2hr train/bus ride (they are upgrading the railway halfway).
The journey introduced us to the foothills of the Pyrenees. fairly high mountains (1,500 + meters). Beautiful green landscape because they've had a lot of rain - yes more today - although not complaining since we only have to walk about 5 or so km. The forecast is for sunny days in the next four or five days.
Taking the opportunity to blog since we have connection again... This is not yet day one but the set-up day! We left Bayonne early with a 2hr train/bus ride (they are upgrading the railway halfway).
The journey introduced us to the foothills of the Pyrenees. fairly high mountains (1,500 + meters). Beautiful green landscape because they've had a lot of rain - yes more today - although not complaining since we only have to walk about 5 or so km. The forecast is for sunny days in the next four or five days.
Walking to St Michel
Basque Houses in St Michel
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We walked from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to St Michel, a great walk on a small rural road to a fabulous little village with a very comfortable hostel. It is our launching spot up to the Way of St James (it's actually the historical way to the trail (who knew!).
Julie and I are going to have a nice local meal this evening and will likely leave around 7:30 (at sunrise) for the real deal. Simon |
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We could recognize our fellow pilgrims at the train station this morning. Two Japanese boys, a Brit, an American, a German, and an Italian. We all had smiles for each other. We were happy to have purchased the train tickets yesterday when we saw some of the others stranded until 11 for the next train.
The lady at the reception house was great, although I missed a few comments she said due to her accent. She was giving us some 'off the record' suggestions. Hilarious! Our host at the hostel is very welcoming. He, like everyone else, seems to think we are English. Our Canadian accent seems to confuse them to no end even when we respond in French they continue the conversation in English. Looking forward to dinner with the other guests tonight. As we wait for dinner, we see the lambs being brought through the street to their nights lodging. Watch out for the poop on the way out! Julie C |
Camino Reception House
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October 10th, 2015
Saturday, the third day of walking! We are now in Pamplona, a beautiful town of 200K people. But let's start with the beginning. We left St Michel (sorry for spelling it St Michelle before). on Thursday morning at 7am end headed up the Pyrenees. Ouch, it was a massive day and many hikers decided to use the alternate route because of the low cloud cover, the possibility of rain and the difficult terrain. We of course decided to tackle the hills - well, 5 hours later and 5000ft (1500m) higher we reached Spain and the Col de Lepoeder. Although hard, the time went by fast looking at sheep and cows in the near landscape - the only thing we could see. We reached the monastery of Roncesvalles at 14:30 sore but happy with our first day. Apparently this first day is toughest on the Camino. Tick, that's done. The next day through Zubiri (23 km) with less elevation gain and loss but still up and down. Day three (22 km) was still in the foothills. The beautiful weather joined us on day two and it's been spectacular since yesterday. For the analytic - we now completed 8% of the Camino, Julie is up by three games (after about 70 or so) in the card tournament, we are averaging 24 km per day with significant elevation gain/loss. It should improve - not that this is important :o)) |
first day in the Pyrenees
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BTW - the aubergues (hostels) are very interesting, sleeping with 100 people in the same room in bunk beds is part of the experience.
Simon
We are three days in. The first day was a real test. I had two companions with me vanity and pride. Vanity invited me to bring more clothing at the last minute. Just in case I wanted to look nice. Thanks. Pride was there every time another pilgrim walked past me. That was hard, but I could not walk any faster on that interminable hill. The mist kept me in the moment as I could not see beyond a few meters.
Simon
We are three days in. The first day was a real test. I had two companions with me vanity and pride. Vanity invited me to bring more clothing at the last minute. Just in case I wanted to look nice. Thanks. Pride was there every time another pilgrim walked past me. That was hard, but I could not walk any faster on that interminable hill. The mist kept me in the moment as I could not see beyond a few meters.
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As I gave in to the walk, I received some gifts. The sound of the sheep bells, the cool breeze, the crunch of the gravel underfoot. They all kept me company.
Day two, we walked with a young German on his third Camino. His pace was fast and Simon could keep up, but me - not so much. I did not say anything when I felt the blister start. Thanks Pride. Today I walked in pain. But my spirits are still up. As we arrived in Pamplona the was a fiesta. The King, queen and other 'large persons' were dancing in the street. The crowd and the music overwhelmed me and I shed a few tears of joy-and pain. Tonight we go out for a meal. Spaghetti I think. Hope tomorrow brings a bit more hardening of my sore feet. |
Typical Road Through Villages in the Spanish Foothills
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Julie
Bridge at the Entrance to Pamplona
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Town Celebration just as we entered Pamplona!
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October 13th, 2015
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Days 4 to 6 have been pretty exiting... lots of walking! Well actually it started with a small day - Julie's feet went south on us. We still managed 16 km or so but two substantial blisters ballooned on each heel (I'll spare everyone the picture). Suffice it to say that they were ugly and painful enough to consider taking a day or two of rest to get the healing. We stayed in a little place called Uterga - nice people, comfortable hostel and great food (funny - the vegetable stew had ham in it because who would ever consider cooking just tasteless vegetables).
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Julie wearing Simon's sandals
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Making our way from Villatuerta
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Anyway, Julie wasn't about to sit still for any length of time... I suggested that she wear my Keen sandals and bingo!
Day five turned into a big 29 km day from Uterga to Villatuerta. Beautiful landscape, old castles and cathedrals, beautiful hill top villages etc. I also have to stop thinking that we are slowly getting out of the Pyrenees (through the foothills). That's just not the case - this is the hilly Province of Navarra and we are simply destined to walk up and down thousands of feet (meters) every day - dam! |
Day 6 was also very beautiful (and hilly). From Villatuerta to Los Arcos.
Lots of people here and there but mostly walking alone - Julie and I - reflecting on a dam good life we are lucky to have and share.
BTW - for the analytic... Julie is now 4 games up in the Camino Casino (135 games played), We have walked 150 km or so (18% of the Camino), and the elevation gain/lost is a lot (again).
Simon
Lots of people here and there but mostly walking alone - Julie and I - reflecting on a dam good life we are lucky to have and share.
BTW - for the analytic... Julie is now 4 games up in the Camino Casino (135 games played), We have walked 150 km or so (18% of the Camino), and the elevation gain/lost is a lot (again).
Simon
Julie a little tipsy taking the lead!!!
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My feet were bad. The blisters the size of 2 townies on each heel, reddish-purple and raw. We left Pamplona, and I knew I was in trouble. Pain with each step, but I managed 16 km of the 24 suggested for Day 4. By the time we reached the Alto de Perdon, I sobbed with pain. We descended the long rocky road to Uterga. My lesson was to ask for help; to accept that I could not continue. Simon, ever so gently, got us a fancy hotel-private room and cena/diner.. It was the right thing to do. We shared a fine meal with Juan from Spain; the evening flowing naturally with conversation and good food.
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In the middle of the night Simon had a brilliant thought. Why not walk with his sandals. that did the trick. the next day I was on fire. Simon kept asking me to slow down. We regained most of Day 4's loss, arriving in Villateurta for the night. We tried a private Albergue, which was beautiful, with deck, and fountains. our duties of laundry done, we shared a bottle of rose and toasted our friends back home. Happy Thanksgiving!
Day 6 was a bit of a challenge. Maybe Simon was right to not go all out yesterday. I had a bit of digestive problems and feel quite chilled and tired tonight. I am sure with a good meal and sleep I will be ready for tomorrow... 28 km with hills!!
Julie
Day 6 was a bit of a challenge. Maybe Simon was right to not go all out yesterday. I had a bit of digestive problems and feel quite chilled and tired tonight. I am sure with a good meal and sleep I will be ready for tomorrow... 28 km with hills!!
Julie
Crossing 'Alto De Perdon' - the Summit of Pardons
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The wine fountain
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October 15th, 2015
Julie and I just settled in our 'aubergue' in Najera, completing two long days of 28 km and 29 km each. Julie is still wearing my sandals and it seems that she prefers to walk in my shoes (thanks Mike!). She will likely try and wear her boots tomorrow or the day after, sandals just don't offer the support required.
Julie and I just settled in our 'aubergue' in Najera, completing two long days of 28 km and 29 km each. Julie is still wearing my sandals and it seems that she prefers to walk in my shoes (thanks Mike!). She will likely try and wear her boots tomorrow or the day after, sandals just don't offer the support required.
Not so ancient guy eating sausage,
cheese and french bred - nothing but healthy!
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The Camino signs come in all shapes and forms and this little guy dates back a few centuries - every town has its own approach but these old ones are the best.
Although long, these two days have been better mostly because of the routine we've become one with! The little aches and pains are there but the mind seems to overlook them and time is spent chatting and looking at the special place we're hiking in. We've been crossing the Rioja Valley which is at the heart of La Rioja - the province. A small but very productive area and mostly famous for the wines - which we continue to enjoy at an alarming pace. |
Ancient Camino Signs (very cool)!!
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Last night we had a great meal and they threw in a bottle of Rioja Red (not sure the specifics but quite good) because they liked having Canadians in their restaurant.
The routine is for early departures - usually wake-up around 07:00 and departure around 07:30 or so. Walk for 90 or so minutes and find a cafe for the morning drink and breakfast. 2.5 hrs later a lunch and we usually get to our destination by 14:30 or so.
The routine is for early departures - usually wake-up around 07:00 and departure around 07:30 or so. Walk for 90 or so minutes and find a cafe for the morning drink and breakfast. 2.5 hrs later a lunch and we usually get to our destination by 14:30 or so.
Another older sign posy along
the Rioja Valley
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On the soft side (yes, I think I'm getting one...), the mind wonders pretty freely when time, worries, projects, etc... life in general just doesn't mix in. We walk mostly alone and I spend time with Julie which I can not imagine it gets any better. We see familiar faces at night at meal time; dinner with a British couple enjoying the Camino as we are but at a slower pace, an Irish couple having a great time (he is mostly worried about where he will be on Sunday for the Ireland/Argentina rugby match), a french couple working as hosts at one of the Albergues for two weeks just because they enjoy helping and meeting people. From 20 something to 70 something, they all walk some or all of the Camino for all kinds of reasons. One of the constants is how hard it is... I have to agree, I originally thought this to be a good training for the Arizona Trail - nah, it's full on - but loving it!!
Simon |
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Two long days, I sure feel tired and looking forward to a 'smaller day' of 20 kms tomorrow. Ha! Simon's sandals have been a god send. Yes, Mike, I now know how it feels to walk in his shoes; but I miss mine. Maybe tomorrow. The weather and countryside are lovely. But the end of today could not get here too fast for me.
Tonight a nice salad and maybe a curry rice... I'm eating well, sleeping well; trying to stay in the moment when walking. My thoughts wander, but I bring myself back to lift knee, and place foot gently, repeat. Spirits are good and I am so thankful to be doing this with Simon. He is so patient and gentle with me. Julie |
Typical track thru the Rioja Vineyards
(yep, still wearing Simon's sandles)
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October 19th, 2015
It's been four days since the last words... there is plenty to say just not the pressure to talk about it! Life has become very simple; we get up around 7 am, leave by 7:30 or 7:45, walk 5 to 7 km have a coffee and something to eat (varies from a croissant to a chorizo sandwich), walk another 12 to 15 km stop for lunch (bread with pate, cheese and a fruit - if possible) walk more if it's a bigger day if not get an albergue, wash your socks (and other things) and visit the surrounding area... repeat when you wake up. |
From Najera to Santo Domingo
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Cathedral Santo Domingo
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I should make it sound monotonous because the towns are great, the history is so much more than what we have in Canada. We did change Province from Rioja to Castilla y Leon - this one we spend almost 70% of our time in. The terrain hasn't let go, still lots of up and down.
Santo Domingo was named after Domingo Garcia who was one of the big supporters of the pilgrims - he walked it himself and was the founder of the town (11th century). We also came across one of the earliest structures related to the Camino yesterday outside of Belorado (Monasterio de San Felix de Oca)... not big but 1200 old. |
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Anyway, after Burgos we head into the 'prairies' for about 10 or so days. Everyone speaks of this stage of the Camino as the head stage - we're past our little physical issues (or we simply don't care about them anymore) and we start spending much of time walking thinking focusing internally. Others simply refer to the stage as boring or maddening.
We'll see how it goes, I still have a lingering ankle pain, although it is fading a bit (or maybe I just don't care). The four days have been great though, meet more good people, spent time chatting with a 20 year old from Montreal who made me think of my nephews, Julie helped a 20 something french girl who had a bum foot, we mainly keep running into the same 10 or 12 people who are heading in the same direction at about the same speed (from Barry, from NY, from the UK, etc.). |
Old 9th Century Monasterio
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Entering Atapuerca
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Last night we stayed in Atapuerca... Maybe it's just me but this is comical (not meaning to offend anyone...). Atapuerca is the site of the earliest know humans (homosapiens) dating back 1.2 million years - it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I assume it sparks-up a few creation/evolution discussion among the peregrinos. |
Today was our first day of rain and it was full on... the ponchos came on as we left the albergue at Atapuerca and came off when checking-in to the albergue in Burgos. Later today Julie and I will likely spend a bit of time at the Cathedral Santa Maria - one of the largest and most decorated cathedrals in Spain.
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OOPS - I almost forgot the numbers.
1) 284.8 km walked in 12 days (35.6%) 2) Elevation - lots and it doesn't matter because we're dam fit! 3) Julie is ahead 17 games after 230 card games (not to worry...) 4) 6 blisters (under control) and 3 bruised toes 5) 2 relaxed minds Cheers, Simon |
Entering Burgos Wet!
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The routine is there as Simon describes it. No need to think about it just walk. Yes the feet hurt and we are tired at the end of the day. What has been getting my attention these past few days are the smells. Sweat, socks, earth, grapes fermenting, exhaust, manure and today wet everything.
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I am enjoying the albergues. Meeting people, doing the Camino waltz of passing each other and rejoining at the end of the day's walk. We shared a private albergue run by a nice Russian man with the Brits and the Irish couples. Simon made a Paella and we laughed together for a fine evening. Two nights ago we were in a small municipal albergue where our host made us a meal of pasta, rosemary chicken confit and ice cream. This meal was shared with a Spaniard and an American. Our host was quite the character. She gave heck to the Spaniard for not knowing any English while we were at least trying.
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Crossing another high plain with good looking cows!
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The meal was good so I explained that an old expression would describe her-a good cook- as good to marry. Well, she gave me quite the tirade, in Spanish, of why she did NOT want to marry. Very funny! Other observations would be the people. In small towns, we are welcome guests. I even got my picture taken by someone?!? In the big cities, there is mistrust. We tried to ask a man which way to go at an intersection and he looked at us as though we were beggars. It plays with your ego.
All the pilgrims seem nice. There are those which are competitive, getting there fast, going far. The religious pilgrims, and those looking for more out of their lives. It is a pleasure meeting them and sharing most intimate moments with them. Each of us recognizing some common goal.
Tonight a hotel room and a pick-nick of vegies, cheese and bread.
Adios, Julie
All the pilgrims seem nice. There are those which are competitive, getting there fast, going far. The religious pilgrims, and those looking for more out of their lives. It is a pleasure meeting them and sharing most intimate moments with them. Each of us recognizing some common goal.
Tonight a hotel room and a pick-nick of vegies, cheese and bread.
Adios, Julie
Old Main Square in Santo Domingo