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October 23rd, 2015
Four more days and we hit the halfway point (I think), We left Burgos intent on listening to our bodies... no more of these long days beyond 25 kms! At the end of that day we had traveled 34 kms and found ourselves in Hontanas. We somehow convinced ourselves and did a stage and a half. It is flat, the trail is somewhat easier, and we feel good... but unfortunately the feet are taking a beating. Julie continues to loose a layer of skin here and there and after an inspection the other day, I think I found three layers of blisters. We did a 19 kms day to Itera de la Vega, then to Villalcaza de Sirga with 28kms and finally today into Ledigos with 29 kms. OK, so we have no clue and we don't listen to our body... those lessons are yet to come (I hope). But the lessons we have in spades are that we walk at 4.5 kms/hr naturally and that we tend to accelerate well beyond 5 kms/hr when we feel good (which is most of the time). Pain also disappears with effort and time. We start walking slow and by the time our muscles and limbs are warm we are at our natural pace. |
Nice Peregrino Monument in Itero de la Vega
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Julie and I realized a long time ago that we just love to walk. This trip is simply confirming it and when we chat with others who struggle with the process, we just haven't hit those doubts or issues.
11th Century Romanesque
Cathedral San Martin
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That said, we are a full stage ahead of schedule and we might have to deal with Julie's feet formally with a clinic or an emergency visit. She is a trooper but every few days we find troubling developments... I'll let her expand.
The stats at this stage are simple; 1) total kms to date = 398, 2) 16 days on the Camino, 3) lots of booboos and ouches! Cheers, Simon So we left the big city, Burgos, and entered the plains. Our companion is the wind. It makes you feel a bit drunk and then steals your breath away and pushes you off balance. A few changes come with the plains. |
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The trail is very straight and mostly flat, but the Mesetas are there to shake things up from time to time. The trail up to now has followed big roads. Another point to make is that the towns in the plains hide in the valleys. They hide from that wind. So you walk and think: where is that D@$% town? and you almost trip on it at the next dip. Very cruel.
I am keeping interested by looking at the wild flowers and the butterflies. Skippers, Silver spotted fritilary, Argus blue are some of the names I remember from my childhood when I used to catch them. |
Long flat sections still have
historical pieces
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As flat as it is... there are still hills!
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We both are enjoying the process and our routine has gelled into a silent ritual. But we have learned to stop more to eat and enjoy the towns. This is not a race. As for my feet, well there yucky (technical term).We start walking and both look like we're 90 and then we warm up and we're OK. But my blisters stay damp and I fear an infection may set in. I'll seek a medico in the next town tomorrow. But for tonight a good meal with others and a sleep. Julie |
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October 26th, 2015
Rest Day in Leon - I have been ignoring my feet and after several comments (both on the blog and from a few fellow peregrinos) and upon inspection the conclusion is - they are bad. Although decent during the day the blisters and bruises aren't getting the rest they need. I know it sounds disgusting but I have sympathy for those sheep that get foot rot. We had a short day to Sahagun on Saturday and the last straw was a comment from our Irish colleagues - Noel said; "don't be a hero - they're all dead; stop and have a rest". his wife might not agree but that was a wise statement! Decision made... we headed into Leon. In Simon style, he found a suite with a bath (to soak my feet - wink wink) for two days of rest. |
King Alphonse V1 at the
entrance of Sahagun
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Simon with one of many bronze peregrino
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Now, when on the Camino, the Spanish lifestyle and schedule is not that apparent. But in a large city, the Spaniards live very differently than us. These two days gave us time to figure out a few things like; the meals, the shop hours, etc.
Let's start with the easy part - you can and should order coffee anytime of day. Breakfast is usually with pastry, consumption of booze starts anytime after 10 (ish). The main meal is lunch (not sure when it starts or ends but don't miss it because dinner is very late, certainly not before 9:30 pm or so. Now here is the kicker and what all mothers (outside of Europe) will likely hate - you can have desert anytime in late afternoon or early evening just to keep you from starving. |
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The day we came into Leon, we woke up at 7 a,m walked about 20 kms, ate a few things throughout the day and decided to have a dinner out. Although a little comical, we waited as long as we could but at 8:30 or so we walk into a nice restaurant and asked to be seated. I believe we offended the staff but after consultation in the kitchen, we were seated alone in the dining room. The meal was stunningly good. Although we all try and blend in... we are such tourists.
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Simon and Julie at the Leon Cathedral
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To continue the lifestyle agenda... The shops also have their ways! Most of them open mid-morning and close from 2 pm to 6 pm. They all open-up again for a few hours in the early evening. On Sundays (which was our second day in Leon) everything is closed all day - but they open-up again early evening. Everyone comes out to socialize from 8:00 until very late every night. even children are playing in the streets as their parents drink and smoke at the open bars. It's an incredible atmosphere, fun, and very different. Our early bedtime habits were not well aligned!!
Tomorrow - back to the Camino. My feet look pretty good and we are both well rested. But first one more chocolate and churos, and a bath... ah!!
Julie C
Tomorrow - back to the Camino. My feet look pretty good and we are both well rested. But first one more chocolate and churos, and a bath... ah!!
Julie C
Not much to add to Julie's comments. The rest is also good for my ankle and trying to be intense about the Camino is kind of silly. Everyone is going through some form of physical abuse and it's wise to relax (thanks Celeste - yes a lesson...).
As it turns out Leon is pretty amazing - we visited (cause we aren't really sitting around) a few key attractions. The one that really struck me today was the birth place of 'parliamentarism'. In 1188 King Alphonse IX convened for the first time ever the 'King's Court'. In Leon - in the Basilica of San Isidro they acknowledged citizen's pre-democratic rights, granting them the right to intervene in decisions affecting public affairs. Very cool.
Anyway, I'm feeling good and looking forward to walking - even though it looks like rain for two or three days.
Oh - the numbers;
1) after 335 games - Julie is up 6 games (she was up about 18 or 19 two days ago)
2) we walked 430 km (we have about 12 or 13 days of walking to do)
3) two more days of plains before the hills (four or so days of mountains called the Sierra Ancares)
Cheers, Simon
As it turns out Leon is pretty amazing - we visited (cause we aren't really sitting around) a few key attractions. The one that really struck me today was the birth place of 'parliamentarism'. In 1188 King Alphonse IX convened for the first time ever the 'King's Court'. In Leon - in the Basilica of San Isidro they acknowledged citizen's pre-democratic rights, granting them the right to intervene in decisions affecting public affairs. Very cool.
Anyway, I'm feeling good and looking forward to walking - even though it looks like rain for two or three days.
Oh - the numbers;
1) after 335 games - Julie is up 6 games (she was up about 18 or 19 two days ago)
2) we walked 430 km (we have about 12 or 13 days of walking to do)
3) two more days of plains before the hills (four or so days of mountains called the Sierra Ancares)
Cheers, Simon
San Marcos - Part Hotel, Church, Museum with the peregrino looking at it.
Part of it dating back to the 10th and 11th Century
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October 29thth, 2015
Back on the trail and it feels wonderful! We left Leon on the 27th and we are now in the small town of Acebo. We've been maintaining good distance without pushing ourselves too much (or to injury). we had a 27 km, a 24 km and today a 28 km day. The weather's been a little up and down with a little mud on the way. Nothing we haven't seen on the Canadian West Coast before. We both seem to feel very good and we are managing to be in a altered state of emptiness... very funny. During the last few days we seem to wake each other up from a trance after long distances of walking without talking. We ask each other about our thoughts but nothing comes to mind. |
Adding weight to our boots!!
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Gaudi Museum in Artego
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We crossed some very interesting land and cities - of note was the small but important city of Artoga (about 12K pop.). At the center of many pilgrim routes for centuries and also the beginning of the Sierra mountains. Artoga also hosts a Gaudi building (picture).
The landscape is also changing dramatically, after 10 or so days of flattish, we are now in a very remote area with 1500m. + mountains. It was nice to see fall colours today - there was also snow in the mountains - although we hit over 1,600m (5,000ft) today and did see any - mind you we were in the clouds and didn't see much of anything. |
1) over 380 card games and Julie is up 7 games
2) 223.1 kms to Santiago (wow, over 550 kms walked)
3) back in the hills and loving the up and down!
4) blisters and booboos or down and manageable (5 bruised toes, 1 blister, 2 tendinitis)
Cheers, Simon
2) 223.1 kms to Santiago (wow, over 550 kms walked)
3) back in the hills and loving the up and down!
4) blisters and booboos or down and manageable (5 bruised toes, 1 blister, 2 tendinitis)
Cheers, Simon
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Yes it was good to be back on the trail. We tell ourselves we'll be slow; we won't go too far; but we end up on some weird high and keep walking. An example of this trance is the fact the we walk and at some point we realize we're going through some significant puddles. We should step aside, but it takes quite a few steps before we change course. It's funny but we seem almost stoned.
The mud is quite something else. It sticks to the boots and is very slippery. We end up walking with 5 lbs boots and slopping about. Luckily it has not been on the downhills. The trail today was lots of up and down we loved it. We passed the Iron Cross today. It is a sight where many leave a stone or a momento. I left a stone Eve gave us many years ago and a necklace. The beads of the necklace came from various necklaces. One from my Mom, from my Dad, and an amulet from a friend. I thought of those that have passed away: my Mom, niece, and a friend. I also thought of our family, those who are not doing well, and of friends who have had a rough go these past few years. I wished all happiness and health. I felt lighter when we left. |
At the Iron Cross
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Tonight we share a meal with our friends from Briton. We continue the Camino waltz, meeting people and passing each other.
Our bodies are changing, yes the feet look not as pretty as before, but the waist lines are slimming down even though we are eating some substantial peregrino menus.
Julie
Our bodies are changing, yes the feet look not as pretty as before, but the waist lines are slimming down even though we are eating some substantial peregrino menus.
Julie
Three days ago, the last day on the plains