Our goal of joining sea (Mediterranean) to ocean (Atlantic) through France. We had a zero (rest) day in Perpignan. A walk in the historic downtown, some good food, and a visit at the art museum was a lovely change of pace. In a book store, we found a trail book for the Canal-des-Deux-Mers.
These two canals (Garonne and Du Midi) were constructed in the 17th century. The engineers displayed much ingenuity with some passing through tunnels or flowing on bridges over rivers. The path was an old railway trail which followed the canals, joining Agdes on the Mediterranean Sea to Royan on the Atlantic Ocean. With the terrain being flat, we planned on walking long distances (35-40 kms) every day. The weather would be hot and dry offering a different kind of challenge. The trail passed by historic villages where we could enjoy a bit of culture and culinary delights.
These two canals (Garonne and Du Midi) were constructed in the 17th century. The engineers displayed much ingenuity with some passing through tunnels or flowing on bridges over rivers. The path was an old railway trail which followed the canals, joining Agdes on the Mediterranean Sea to Royan on the Atlantic Ocean. With the terrain being flat, we planned on walking long distances (35-40 kms) every day. The weather would be hot and dry offering a different kind of challenge. The trail passed by historic villages where we could enjoy a bit of culture and culinary delights.
The beautiful Citadel de Bezier
The first was the Citadel and cathedral of Bezier which displayed the breath taking craftmanship of the 13th century. This city boasted being one of the oldest cities in France with evidence of life since 575 BCE with remnants of a roman amphitheater.
We took as break in a small hamlet and watched a group playing Boules (Bocce). We inquired if there was a good spot to camp. The owner of the buvette (snack bar) suggested that maybe a bit further there would be a nice grassy spot. But all we found were steep slopes, or prickly bushes and brambles. We realised that finding a campsite at the end of the day was going to be a challenge. We finally chose a vacant parking lot. When exhausted, our criteria for a camping spot lowered significantly. At least it was flat.
We took as break in a small hamlet and watched a group playing Boules (Bocce). We inquired if there was a good spot to camp. The owner of the buvette (snack bar) suggested that maybe a bit further there would be a nice grassy spot. But all we found were steep slopes, or prickly bushes and brambles. We realised that finding a campsite at the end of the day was going to be a challenge. We finally chose a vacant parking lot. When exhausted, our criteria for a camping spot lowered significantly. At least it was flat.
The all important (and serious) local afternoon bocce tournament!
These first few days on the Canal-des-Deux-Mers went well. We seemed to be the only ones tackling this trail on foot. What surprised us, was that we travelled the same distance and speed as the boaters. We would see the same groups over many days.
At the end of the next day, we arrived in Le-Somail. As it was a busy tourist area, finding a camp spot seemed impossible. Julie was hot, tired and a ‘bit’ grumpy, but Simon found a solution. There were hotel-boats for hire! Mariance, from Madagascar, was a welcoming host. The rooms on her boat had private bathrooms, and she offered a fantastic breakfast of crepes, home-made jams, honey, fresh juice, and coffee. After a shower, a good sleep, and a fabulous breakfast, Julie was ready to face the next day with a smile. |
The only flat spot around - the parking lot!
|
We spent a beautiful night and had a great breakfast on the Mariance
We planned on pausing in the next big town, Carcassonne. This was when we realised how tired we were. These long days of walking in the hot sun had ‘baked’ us! While in town, we visited its citadel, known as the Cité-de-Carcassonne, which dated back to the Gallo-Roman period.
|
In La-Redorte, we purchased supplies, Orangina (this was definitely our drink of choice) and ice cream. There was a storm developing. We sheltered ourselves under a bridge by the canal. We didn’t feel in a rush, we just snoozed, munched, and waited. Another 7 kms got us to the Ecluses (locks)-de-l’Aiguille where we camped on a flat spot near the canal. Unlike our Rideau Canal locks, these did not offer public toilets or water taps. This made camping near towns a bit unpleasant.
The trip drink - Orangina!
|
Enjoying the local specialty - 'The Cassoulet' - and visiting the outstanding Carcassone Fortress
We also ate the local specialty: Cassoulet (white beans, chicken, and Toulouse sausage in a thick sauce). Quite a hearty meal; Simon was in heaven. We had been on the canal trail for over two weeks. The cyclists we met informed us that the next section, from Toulouse to Bordeaux, was paved, very urban and busy. We were not enthusiastic about being on crowded trails, and the heat on asphalt was going to be painful. What to do?
Maybe the weather in the mountains would be more clement now? Could we return and walk the last section of the GR10? Once in Toulouse, we spent a few days visiting this exciting city.
Maybe the weather in the mountains would be more clement now? Could we return and walk the last section of the GR10? Once in Toulouse, we spent a few days visiting this exciting city.
|
First; Food. Simon enjoyed Toulouse sausage and Julie tried the Encornet-farci-a-la-Setoise. We had no idea… It was a squid body stuffed with pork; a recipe from Sete (town near the Mediterranean Sea).
Second: Historic Sites. the Capitol (opera house) situated in the 12th century town-square, where one can enjoy a coffee for double the price of anywhere else in town! The Basilique-Saint-Sernin was an 11th century Romanesque masterpiece. We were fortunate enough to visit while the choir was practicing. The sound of their voices filled the air and gave us goose bumps, it was magical. The museum of St.-Raymond, once a necropolis, then a hospital which eventually became a museum. Here ancient Roman relics, that were uncovered when the Garonne riverbanks eroded after a large flood, were displayed. |
Basilique Saint Sernin where we attended a lovely choir performance
|
|
Third: a walk along the canals where the Canal-du-Midi joined the Canal-de-Garonne. It seemed a good way to end the Canal walk. The decision was made... We are heading back on the GR10! From Toulouse we headed South-West to Lourdes where we could get a bus up into the Pyrenees. We had no idea what to expect in Lourdes. The streets were filled with tacky souvenir shops. The Lourdes Grotto and its churches (St.-Bernadette, St.-Pie-X, Sacré-Cœur, Notre-Dame, etc.) seemed garish and overdone. We usually enjoyed visiting churches but here we experienced an uncomfortable sensation similar to nausea. |
The start of the Canal de la Garonne which heads from Toulouse to Bordeaux
|
Lourdes - for some it is bliss... for us, it was not!
|
Later we visited the Château-Fort, now a museum. This castle's origins went back to Roman times. The Notre-Dame-du-Château chapel housed the furnishings of the former parish church of Saint-Pierre-de-Lourdes, destroyed in 1904. In this chapel, we felt that familiar admiration again.
To stretch our legs before heading back in the Pyrenees, we hiked up the Pic-de-Beout. The hike was made more exciting as we faced a storm with high winds and rain. On the way down, we met another foolish hiker. We were all surprised to see someone else here on this stormy day. We were then ready for the third part of this adventure - returning to the GR10! |
On top of the Pic de Beout during a wind storm!
|
