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November 3rd, 2015
Last Week on the Camino! We've spent many days crossing the Cantabrian Mountain range without much internet connection (which is fine with us but of some concern to many of our peregrinos)! The journey in the last four days has been exceptional. We've crossed some spectacular landscape and villages/cities with so much history. Astorga, Ponferrada, Villafranca and yesterday O'Cebreiro. O'Cebreiro has the oldest standing (and in use) structure supporting the Camino. The town dates back to the 12th century and its church is still standing the way it was then (although a tad renovated). The priest, Don Elias Sampedro, is credited for the rejuvenation of the Camino by creating the yellow arrows we now follow. We also crossed a Province – Castilla de Leon to Galicia, we enter3d in the very mountainous East side and will slowly make our way across several valleys eventually making our way to Santiago de Compostela. |
Crossing into Galicia
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On The Way Up to O'Cebreiro
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The walking's been fabulous, that's not to say that we aren't with a few blisters or shin splints. I lost complete sense of time this morning - just walking and admiring the surroundings and thinking pretty simple thoughts or none at all (scary).
The Oldest church along the Camino in O'Cebreiro The weather is fairly warm - a little more than I expected - in the high teens every day. We've had the nicest day as we climbed the pass at O'Cebreiro (around 1600m / 5000ft) and today likely the worst day yet with heavy rains in yet another mountain pass. Even so, today might have been the nicest segment of the Camino. |
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The old ancient roads leave the feeling of having been traveled for over a 1000 years and the clouds/fog only helped intensify that feeling.
The shepherds are very nice to the peregrinos but they seem to have hard working lives. They always salute us and once in a while there is a little chat - although somewhat limited - usually because of our inability to communicate in Spanish. We are coasting along at a slow pace, some of the folks we were meeting everyday are likely a bit further ahead of us - we are content and are likely going to enter Santiago de Compostela on Sunday. Many wanted to get there on Saturday but why... I think I'm going to miss this!! Cheers, Simon |
The Oldest church along the Camino in O'Cebreiro
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Bridge into Ponferrada
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The plains are behind us. We have entered the next phase and we feel it. The terrain is varied and the villages pepper our walk more frequently. With this more interesting terrain, the trail had become more demanding. This creates an interesting combo. We both feel that the trance-like state we felt in the plains has changed to a heightened awareness of the moment, and some weird joy and need to slow it (the journey) down. We are following the guide book more closely and walking shorter days.
We have learned that the large albergues are not for us. They are full most nights with a lot of younger folks that want to talk and party ‘till late. It is not a good mix with me. So we select private hostels with smaller rooms. Luxuries like laundry services and home cooked meals are celebrated with great glee. Tonight we have a small room for 4 with our own bathroom! Our clothes have been washed and smell great! Heaven! |
These hard working people amaze me. Their days are long, but they are always gracious and welcoming. When I think of how many have come before me… The old women of the smaller villages have often come out to offer us nuts, or some cooked food when they see us pass by. It is customary, of course, to offer a donativo as payment. This is something I will bring home with me; that sense of being recognized as an honored guest in their villages and homes. Like Simon said, I don’t want this to end.
Julie
Julie
Simon and Julie at the Alto do Polo
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Julie heading down into Sarria
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November 6th, 2015
I just have a story or more like a moment to describe today. We have now completed 30 days on the Camino which means we walked about 700 something kilometers. You go through ups and downs and for sure the body (a fifty five year old one) gets a little abused.
I just have a story or more like a moment to describe today. We have now completed 30 days on the Camino which means we walked about 700 something kilometers. You go through ups and downs and for sure the body (a fifty five year old one) gets a little abused.
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Anyway yesterday was day 29 and we were walking by marker '75 km' (left to walk) or so and it was by far the worst day of the trip weather wise. In addition, Julie's back was locked-up the day before and we found a physio to do a little work that night - seems to have done good but... Back to the story.
The wind was gusting, the rain was full on, many people were stopped in cafes or under trees to let the worst of the storm pass. It just felt that it was going to rain all day so Julie and I just walked. I was drenched but still warm under my poncho. I was in a zone, walking at a good pace and my mind was just miles away, thinking of whatever (probably Arizona!). All of a sudden I wondered how Julie was doing, I couldn't here a thing with the driving rain and gusty wind. How is her back? Is she cold? How are her feet? So, I stopped and turned around... she was 10 or 12 meters behind me and looked-up with the biggest grin I've seen on Julie in a while and without me asking how she was she said - "isn't this great!!". She walked by, I took a picture and we kept walking. All I could think of was; the human spirit is simply awesome. |
Julie in the driving rain (probably still grinning)
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A little friend along the way
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There isn't much else to say today. One of those moments that will simply outlast most others...
BTW - this little bird came out of the branches in the pouring rain and stood inches away from my hand - probably wanted food but all I had was my iPhone! Cheers, Simon Yes yesterday's storm was awesome. It reminded me of other epic days in the mountains. those are the stories you remember the clearest. So I was having a good time. Weird. But I had a lesson to re-learn. Just because you feel like a pro doesn't mean you can't hurt yourself. In Sarria there is an influx of people that only do the last 100 km start. You can tell who they are cause they are so clean! |
Well, my lower back locked up. The physio helped a bit but with every step flat or down, I feel a searing pain in my back and butt. What are you going to do. So it's back to basics: lift knee, place foot down gently and repeat.
The terrain is helping because it's a lot of up, but what comes up must come down... I'm still happy, and like to see the markers count down the distance left to Santiago. But the book is wrong! it describes this last section as flat. Ha! and the distances are a bit screwy as well. Sorry got lost in the details for a moment. All in all, we are having lots of laughs, enjoying the scenery, and the food. Simon is taking good care of me by booking more private rooms, and doing most of the after walk work. I love him! Two more days and about 40 km left.
Julie
The terrain is helping because it's a lot of up, but what comes up must come down... I'm still happy, and like to see the markers count down the distance left to Santiago. But the book is wrong! it describes this last section as flat. Ha! and the distances are a bit screwy as well. Sorry got lost in the details for a moment. All in all, we are having lots of laughs, enjoying the scenery, and the food. Simon is taking good care of me by booking more private rooms, and doing most of the after walk work. I love him! Two more days and about 40 km left.
Julie
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November 8th, 2015
The Camino proper came to an end today as we entered Santiago de Compostela. The last two days have been a little hard knowing that the end was approaching quickly. The weather was great and the days were short but the terrain was a little difficult as we crossed numerous valleys - up and down non-stop! The entrance to the city was a little anti-climatic with no views of the city just a slow entrance through the suburbs and a meandering circuit on city roads. The entrance to the main square with the museums, cathedral and in particular being greeted by and soon after greeting ourselves the many people we've met and spent time with throughout the last month was touching. It's a bit too soon to reflect on the impact of this journey but two or three obvious thoughts come to mind: 1) Thanks Kevin for the innocent suggestion almost a year ago - this is without a doubt an amazing way to start a year of adventure, 2) Meeting people from all over the world, sharing a few thoughts and appreciating the many common elements and benefits of the Camino is surprising, 3) The simplicity of life during such a journey is of tremendous benefit, 4) I will miss local folks wishing us "buen camino", the cow bells, and roosters call in the morning, and |
In Santiago de Compostela - Yeah!
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5) Finally, the specific (liminal) space that Julie and I carefully planned and put ourselves in creates an ability to brainstorm without boundaries. I have to admit that my thoughts throughout this journey have consistently been pretty wild - from building or re-working the strategies of IT Consulting to the alternative living options for Julie and I. Not landing on anything specific just realizing that the discovery process first come without boundaries. I laughed a couple of times in the last days thinking of Dom B. (colleague and friend) who believes strongly of this approach from a user design perspective at work. I was applying it to my life...
Nice morning shot - corn drying hut
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Anyway - not trying to be too philosophical, just realizing that given the right conditions and influences the ideas are pretty out there.
The trip continues, I've booked our trip to Barcelona and then to Paris later next week. Can't wait to visit with our family in Ottawa (and area). Victoria at the end of November just in time for a King Crimson concert... the adventure continues! Cheers Simon |
I was interviewed by a Japanese woman today on what is happiness. I got emotional, as I often do. But happiness is a spark or a little switch that is inside of us all. It allows me to see in child-like wonder that neon yellow caterpillar, rejoice in the slick mud after a rainy day, and reveling in walking in a storm and sharing with others our hopes and aspirations.
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I am very proud of us. This was hard, but together we made it fun and had lots of laughs. Today we really felt part of this pilgrim family as we embraced all those that we had walked with. Amazing people from all age groups and walks of life. Who knew that the Camino would be that for me-us. Yes, the physical challenge was there but in the end it is the people we've met that will linger in my heart.
It will take a few days not to walk like a pilgrim, AKA waddle and limp, but I hope that I will keep some pilgrim sense about me. To face life with gratitude and simplicity; to take challenges one step at a time. I will remember that many on the Camino had been walking for 2-3 months. This gives me hope that I too can accomplish difficult tasks. Buen Camino Julie |
One of the last small towns and bridge
before Santiago de Compostela
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BTW - I've been forgetting about the statistics.
1) The Camino Casino - after 562 games, Simon is leading by 16 games
2) The Camino is 770 kms but we've seen everything from 760 to 800
3) 6 bruised toes, 1 lost toe nail, one locked-up back, two still nagging shin splints, at least 20 or 25 lbs lost, 10 healed blisters (we're doing great!)
4) My estimation is that we averaged about 23.8 km per day and somewhere around 300 meters of elevation gain and loss daily.
Nice prep and confidence booster for the Arizona Trail (AZT) !!
1) The Camino Casino - after 562 games, Simon is leading by 16 games
2) The Camino is 770 kms but we've seen everything from 760 to 800
3) 6 bruised toes, 1 lost toe nail, one locked-up back, two still nagging shin splints, at least 20 or 25 lbs lost, 10 healed blisters (we're doing great!)
4) My estimation is that we averaged about 23.8 km per day and somewhere around 300 meters of elevation gain and loss daily.
Nice prep and confidence booster for the Arizona Trail (AZT) !!