2023 manitoba & Saskatchewan

​During the 2023 season, we planned to walk the Manitoba and Saskatchewan sections of the Trans Canada Trail (TCT). After the COVID hiatus, we were happy to get our boots back on the trail.

​While researching the prairie’s section, it became clear that the TCT used long sections of farm/dirt roads. A few days of road walking can be pleasant, but weeks of road walking is hard and has challenges such as limited access to water (potentially for days), and no safe and remote areas for camping (farmland being privately owned).

One of 'too many' connectors

​We chose to make it a road trip. Our plan would be to follow the TCT through small towns and hike all municipal, provincial, and national parks along the way. Between these sections of natural trail, our car provided easier access to water, food, and camping options. We also had the freedom to change our trajectory on the spur of the moment in reaction to poor weather or trail closures.

We started near the Ontario and Manitoba border in Whiteshell Provincial Park. The geography of this park was a fine example of the Canadian Shield with a plethora of small lakes and bogs, mainly coniferous forests, and rolling rocky terrain. Julie’s fingers quickly became stained blue as she spent much of her time picking wild blueberries along the trail. This section of trail led through Turtle Rock, where we hoped to see examples of Petroforms (stones shaped into patterns by Indigenous ancestors). Unfortunately, the name referred to a rounded rock the ‘shape of a turtle’s back’. It seemed to us that every rock bump was that shape. But what did we know?

Centennial Trail, Whiteshell Prov. Park - Hansens Creek

Penawa Suspension Bridge

One of our first night in Whiteshell was memorable, we got up at midnight and watched the northern lights. The cool breeze off the Brereton Lake and the dancing night sky were truly magical.

As we exited North Whiteshell we trekked through Pinawa, a quaint town. The trail system followed the Winnipeg River and crossed a section of boreal forest along marshes which led to the ‘Pinawa Suspension Bridge’ then looped back into town. We met a few Hutterite women out for a walk along this lovely trail and had a chat.

Red River North Trail - Grand Beach Prov. Park

​The TCT quickly makes its way northwest to Grand Marais and Grand Beach P.P. This area was very unexpected with well-maintained sandy trails. The TCT traversed ancient sand dunes, the Belair moraine, of the glacial Agassiz Lake which disappeared about 8,000 years ago. The forest of Jack pines and spruce provided some protection from the drizzle falling during our walk but once on the Grand Beach of Lake Winnipeg, the protection was gone, and we got soaked. The beach was deserted of its usual sun-worshiping visitors, we had the white sands and the waves all to ourselves. After a few long hiking days, we shopped at the camp store, devouring snacks and taking advantage of the hot showers. It was pure luxury.

​Approaching Winnipeg, we found ourselves hiking along the river trail system. The path was less maintained than other big city parks with some sections very muddy, but it provided shade and a river cooled breeze. The downtown path gave us an opportunity to see some of the architecture and get a sense of the community. 

We did stop at the famous corner of Portage and Main but it being summer, we didn’t experience the cold winds. There was a sculpture of Louis Riel by the legislature. In Manitoba he was revered for what he had done for the province. As a Canadian politician, he was one of the founders of the Province of Manitoba. He was also leader for the Métis people. He led two resistance movements against the Government of Canada and its first prime minister John A. Macdonald. It was interesting how our history classes (in the 1970’s, in Ontario) had presented him only as a rebel. We were glad to learn a bit more about this strong man and leader.

We minimized long stretches of ‘Connector Roads’ in Southern Manitoba but added Turtle Mountain P. P. This area was not part of the TCT, but we felt the need to explore the southern border landscape. The trails in the park circumnavigated Adam Lake, it was a pleasant hike in the shade of a boreal forest with a few glimpses of the lake. We visited Souris and Boissevain with its many murals depicting the history of the area.

The Seton Trail - Spruce Woods P.P.

​Heading straight north, we crossed Spruce Woods P.P. We explored this beautiful park and one trail in particular which followed the Epinette Creek, through wooded areas and ravines, sandy hills, and mixed-grass prairie. The Seton trail was named after Ernest Thompson Seton, ​

a well renowned naturalist, artist, and father of the Woodcraft League and the Boy Scouts. We met a hiker who complained about the steep inclines and sandy hills in the vicinity. We did find it challenging, but it gave us the excuse to enjoy an ice cream cone when we crossed Brandon. This town was very familiar as we had stayed there a few times before. We took advantage of the city and enjoyed a great pizza and craft beer in a funky joint. One of the pleasures of long hiking days was the guilt free consumption of high caloric foods.

Driving further north, we spent a ‘zero day’ and two trekking days in Riding Mountain N.P. The TCT passed south of this UNESCO Biosphere Region, but we chose to add some kilometers of trails within the park. There was mist in the early morning, a sure sign that the weather was cooling off a bit. Our first hike was a short loop into the forest to Grey Owl cabin. The bugs were so bad we practically ran the ​whole way. 

Clear Lake - Riding National Park

This gave us a bit of time to check out the town of Wasagaming. It was busy with lots of tourists enjoying the sun and fun of the park. We found a shady spot, sat on Adirondack chairs, and ate ice cream cones. This was becoming our season’s preferred treat!
The next day our hike followed the Clear Lake north’s shore. The lake breeze reduced the bug presence, and we kept a good pace for this 25km section. Julie had a refreshing dip in the lake before setting up camp. We slept well that night.

The geography was shifting from the shield with its rolling terrain to flat fields filled with ripening grasses. The wind danced on the wheat creating a fluid motion like the swells of the sea. The morning sun made the fields look gold under clear blue skies. Every few fence-posts, we spotted Redtail or Swanson’s hawks looking for their breakfast of delicious rodents.

The Gilberts Plains Golf Ball (holding a hockey stick!)

Our days were settling into a gentle rhythm of long morning hikes enjoying cool weather, setting up camp early, and having relaxing afternoons. We brought a few luxuries such as our camp chairs (courtesy of our friend Debbie), and trash books. We sat, read, or even snoozed on occasion.

​​Flying, driving, or even riding across Canada, simply doesn’t provide the time to explore the Prairies and its smaller communities. Now was our chance. We decided to detour north to discover Dauphin, then west to Gilbert Plains, and Roblin.

We then crossed over into Saskatchewan.  We stopped in Verigin to take a picture of a Grange and discovered a Doukhobor community museum. The town had rebuilt the 1800’s Doukhobor Colony that had existed here from the late 1800’s to the 1930’s. Besides P. Verigin’s house of worship, a few modest homes, there were Brickworks, a grain elevator, and a flour mill. All were beautifully restored. Verigin was named in honour of the Russian philosopher Peter Verigin. The Doukhobors were pacifists whose maxim was ‘Toil and Peaceful Life’. The community later moved to the Slocan valley near Castlegar BC.

​We continued our hike along the Good Spirit Lake Trail, then thru Yorkton and across Melville. Before making our way to the Qu’Appelle Valley Trails, we stopped to visit the Motherwell Homestead National Historic Site. An early Saskatchewan settler, W.R. Motherwell moved west from Ontario. Seeking a new life on the prairies, he became a community leader whose passion for scientific farming methods took him all the way to parliament as Minister of Agriculture. 

Old Tractor and Threshing Machine - Motherwell Nat. Hist. Site

For the Prairies, we can thank him for the practices of lining trees along fields to reduce wind and snow drifts, digging water catchment ponds to collect snow-melt, and the development of farmer’s grain co-operatives.

​There are a few long stretches of ‘water ways’ along the Qu’Appelle Valley but we did enjoy many sections of the Wolseley, Abernathy, and trails in the Echo Valley P.P. These trails mainly followed to meandering river and lakes along the Qu’Appelle Valley. Getting up on the plateau, we enjoyed the breeze and the views of the valley below which was (way back when) a major continental waterway and corridor into the Great Plains.

Arriving in Regina we followed Wascana Creek and Lake Trail through a beautiful wetland reserve within town. Not sure why we were surprised but Regina is a lovely and busy city. The downtown was lively. We stopped at a funky coffee shop and enjoyed some baked goods while conversing with Reginians (?).

We explored the RCMP museum. The exhibits displayed over a century of RCMP history, from the formation  of​

Saskatchewan Legislative Building - Regina

the North-West Mounted Police in 1873, to the modern-day Mountie. It gave us an appreciation of how the RCMP shaped the west and protected our borders.

Nicolle Flats - Buffalo Pond Prov. Park

Heading west (and north) we stopped at Buffalo Pond P.P. Descending into the Qu’Appelle valley again, we admired the deep wide gorge of the river valley. The Nicolle Flats trail circumnavigated a wetland that was home to many bird, deer, and woods buffalo. At the end of the trail, we checked out the Nicolle’s homestead a stone building that the Nicolle family called home until the early 1940’s. Several other fun trail sections in Douglas P.P. and Danielson P.P. were worth strolling through windy grasslands.

​From there, the 120km Chief Whitecap Waterway reaches Saskatoon. What can be said about Saskatoon? We think it’s our favorite prairie city. We hiked the Meewasin trail along both sides of the South Saskatchewan River in order to spend time in the downtown core. We spotted a red fox, pelicans, and other waterfowl along the way. We took a well deserved ‘zero day’ and our host at the B&B suggested the D’Lish Restaurant for lunch and we were glad to have taken her recommendation. It was indeed D’Lish! The city had lots to offer from the Ukrainian Heritage center, galleries, great eateries, and a blend of old and new architecture.

Meewasin Trail - Saskatoon

​Instead of heading north and west on the TCT (which we will continue next season – summer 2024) and given the limited amount of time left in our walking season, we decided to head south west to discover Saskatchewan Landing P.P. This was a natural crossing point on the South Saskatchewan River for natives and settlers alike. Now a provincial park, it offered trails that followed the countless travellers that had passed through this area. 

The Prairie Vista Trail started by a little stream hidden in lush vegetation deep in a coulee. Climbing up the hill to the viewpoint, we admired the majestic coulee landscape and the Goodwin House and bridge from afar. On our way back, we decided to bushwack across the stream to catch another trail. We managed to keep our feet dry, but we did collect a few burrs and cactus needles.

Saskatchewan Landing Prov. Park

As we neared the Alberta border a few of our old haunts called out to us. They were not part of the TCT, but we were so close we had to go a see them again. Kinbrook P.P. was a park offering spectacular bird watching opportunities. This large wetland reserve was home to white pelicans, cormorants, and many other species of waterfowl. In our Edmonton days we came here often to bird watch. It did not disappoint. We also enjoyed the curious prairie dogs popping their heads out of their burrows to watch us pass by. On our way out of the park we saw an American badger sunning himself on top of his set (burrow). We stayed quiet and watched as he scratched and snoozed in the afternoon heat.

Early Morning Entrance Dynosaur - Dynosaur Prov. Park

​Next was Dinosaur P.P. We had visited this park in 1986 before it became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In its early days there was only one-loop trail. Now the park offered many trails, a small museum, and campsite. In the early morning the fog gave the entrance dinosaur sculpture a surreal appearance. Our first trail was down into the Cotton Wood Creek area. We spotted a few mule deer grazing quietly near the water bank. We managed to walk all the trails in the park, by the end of the afternoon we were parched and pooped. What better excuse to sample the park restaurant’s ice cream flavors?! Julie chose black cherry and Simon enjoyed maple walnut.

It was time to start heading east. A stop-over in Medicine Hat was worthwhile. This orphaned TCT trail followed the South Saskatchewan River across town. Lovely cottonwood trees offered shade along this path. We looped back into town and enjoyed the Rib Fest celebration in the downtown core.

Cypress Hills Inter Provincial Park

In Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park we hiked on the TCT (another orphaned segment), climbing up the grassy hills and dipping down into forested valleys. Our campsite offered a swimming pool where we cooled off after our two days of hiking. We also sampled the ice cream. It was good (just so you know).

Grasslands National Park

Grass Lands N.P. was not part of the TCT, but it was a ‘must’ to fully experience the Prairies. In fact, we both voted it “the best park of this season”. The grass lands opened to the Rock Creek valley and the badlands. We booked a guided tour with a ranger. Kyle was very knowledgeable and showed us how to find dinosaur fossil 

chards and crystals in the clay mound formations. The following day we spent many hours meandering through these amazing clay formations looking for the ‘Big Find’. We didn’t find any Brontosaurus heads, shucks. Driving east along the Red Coat Trail, we searched for ghost towns. We managed to find a few derelict buildings here and there. The wooden grange silos were becoming rare and having the opportunity to see them was worth the few detours we made.

The small multicultural towns in remote Saskatchewan and Manitoba retained their heritage proudly. One such town was Gravelbourg Sk. We stopped there for a break and found a charming French community with a large convent and the Cathedral of our Lady of Assumption. The Cathedral was very beautifully maintained.

Chasing Ghost Towns in Saskatchewan

​Entering Ontario, we stopped in Pukaskwa N.P. We took advantage of another TCT segment trail to the White River suspension bridge for a challenging hike and swim in the river. That night, we spent the evening playing cards with our friend’s, Mike and Jeannie, who were camping at this beautiful park. It was good to catch up with friends and revisit this amazing park. A few more days of driving found us back home where we were in time to celebrate Simon’s mother’s 99th birthday.

Pukaskwa National Park

Julie was just starting to relax and settle into her routine when Simon announced that he was going for one last motorcycle trip, ‘before the winter comes’. Nothing surprising with this statement. The adventures never cease. Until next time. We will pass the winter at home working out and cross-country skiing. Sadly, we will have to wait for next summer’s walking season to sample ice cream again.

​Until then be well.

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View a brief photo collage of Season 4